The Bulgari Octo Finissimo presented at Baseworld 2017 is already creating mixed reactions. On the one hand, there are people who want immediately recognizable objects on their wrist. Maybe not showy, but with an obvious personality to everyone. There are the champions of understatement, those who prefer not to share with too many people the pleasure of a watch made to speak in a low and persuasive voice: a seductive watch, that’s what Bulgari Finissimo is.
Those who do not want to flaunt their success, but rather camouflage it, understand how the Octo case is difficult to make already in steel or gold, but it becomes an impossible mission when the chosen material is the Titans. You can also see the Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton.
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic comes with a futuristic style, the company wants to bring to the wrist of its customers a modern and refined watch that can be combined with any outfit both elegant and sporty.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Review
The style of the watch has captured us immediately because it is different from the aesthetics to which Bulgari has accustomed us with its watches. It really breathes an air of freshness in the company’s design.
Appreciable the absence of mirror-polished parts: Maybe they could make sense in other versions, but in this – clearly devoted to minimalism – they would have been too many. For those wishing to go even further, on the road to qualifying details, there is the version that features a titanium bracelet, extraordinary because it is tapered. It tightens towards the inside of the wrist and this requires a greater number of different links. With an unprecedented hollow in which the folding closure is concealed, thus contributing to reaffirming the Finissimo theme: containing thickness.
The case is 40 mm and is ultra-thin so it fits perfectly on the wrist. The case has a particular structure. The base has an octagonal shape (which is why the watch is called Octo). The bezel is round while towards the inside of the dial we find again an octagonal titanium finish.
To be clear: with its 5.15 mm thickness (for 40 in diameter) the Bulgari does even better than the very thin Swatch Skin (5.4 mm for the 37 mm diameter model and 5.65 mm for the 40 mm model). It is not mechanical but quartz.
The dial is simpler than the case. The bottom is silver and recalls the color of titanium. The indexes are simple. Only the hours six and twelve are indicated by Arabic numerals. The hands are anthracite and on the left side, you can see a small seconds counter.
Finally, the bracelet of the watch is always made of titanium the attachment starts from the case and then there are small rectangular and thin links that make up the entire strap of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo automatic.
The technical features of the automatic Bulgari Octo Finissimo
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo automatic also has excellent technical characteristics. The movement of the watch is mechanical, self-winding with a Platinum rotor and a small seconds counter.
The BVL138 caliber used for the creation of the movement (it has a 55-hour reserve ) has been entirely designed and built by Bulgari and is a great example of modern design: self-winding mechanical, fitted with a small platinum rotor, integrated in the total thickness (2.23 mm). The choice of platinum is strictly technical: the high specific weight of the precious metal increases the efficiency of the recharging system of a watch intended for relatively lazy wrists.
Although the examination of the movement does not reveal any point of structural weakness, an ultra-thin watch must be considered and treated as a precious “complicated”. No problem in everyday life, but keeping the Finissimo away from shocks and vibrations is a great idea, even if the designers of the movement have abounded in rubies (as many as 36: many for a single time) and in small details to increase the solidity of the connections between the platen and the bridges, which are intentionally very large to increase torsional rigidity and reliability in general.
The titanium model is completely hand- decorated and comes in a coat de Geneve anglage and perlage finish. The titanium crown still has ceramic inserts. At last, the case back is made to view. Finally, the model is only waterproof up to 30 meters, so you can’t take it to the pool or the sea.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic opinions and price
With the new Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic presented at Baseworld 2017 in Basel, the company presents a watch that with its only 2.23 mm thickness, stands as the world’s thinnest automatic caliber watch.
Bulgari presents a unique and modern model as well as ultra-thin, its style is presented in four different watches, while the first has a Titanium bracelet the other three have black tanned leather bracelets. Among these four references, the most precious is the one with a diamond-studded bezel.
The new Bulgari watches are very interesting and have been highly appreciated by all those who went to Baseworld to see the new proposals of the most influential companies in the world of watches.
The appreciation goes to the courage of Bulgari to create a platinum 950 movement so thin and so precise, combining it among other things with an ultra modern and refined aesthetic style.
Two final reports: The Bulgari Finissimo is part of a trilogy of extremely compact watches: there are also the tourbillon and minute repeater. And the possibility of having your signature (or any other writing) printed with indelible paint on the side of the case opposite the crown. Provided that the writing also has a very limited vertical development.
The exploded view of the movement shows a traditional construction. Still, the arrangement of the rotor forced her to make somersaults to allow the spring of the barrel (also very thin and therefore with some storage and torque problems, in the supply of energy) to do its job well. No coincidence that the barrel is of considerable size and the autonomy, thanks to the use of many rubies, is more than satisfactory.
The comparison between the frontal and lateral views allows us to realize how much the thickness of Finissimo is actually contained. The choice of titanium is certainly helpful in limiting the risk of torsional deformations, a risk that is limited because the architecture of the case itself, on overlapping planes, strengthens the structure.
The designer also enters into technical details, such as the choice of the charging rotor. The rotor is essentially an asymmetrical lever that must be able to rotate on a solid pin, sized to withstand even side impacts. When you choose, as in this case, to use platinum to increase efficiency, the strength of the pin becomes a fundamental element.
The movement of the Bulgari Finissimo is self-winding. To contain the thickness, we chose to use a micro-rotor. It is a functional and elegant solution, which however limits the possibilities of use of the movement itself (it is not, for example, a caliber suitable for sports watches or to be the basis for specialized modules) and the costs of this increase.
The visible case back shows the movement. Also, the structure of the bridges, wide up to cover almost the entire rear surface of the movement, is a choice aimed at increasing the torsional resistance of a movement that, should not be forgotten, has a thickness of just over 2 millimeters. To increase the reliability and resistance, besides the fixing screws, there are also shaped joints to increase the cohesion between the platen and bridges.